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The resulting collaboration ranged from intertwining age-old embroidery and weaving techniques with designs from the Dior archives to curating a collection of shirts and huipils handcrafted by these very communities. This will be creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first cruise collection, after taking the helm of the luxury brand in January last year. The event, which will unveil creative director Sabato De Sarno's first cruise collection, will take place on May 13 and Gucci will support the "Electric Dreams" exhibition bowing in the fall, in addition to a three-year partnership fostering the Tate’s work with young creatives. Perpetually in style, they make up some of the most coveted designer handbags in the history of fashion.
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With loads of covetable cowboy boots on the runway, clearly that trend is not going anywhere, and if anything is just going to get more luxe. Also on the accessories front, handmade silver work, in collaboration with Rafael Villa Rojas of Mexico City, lent itself to chic butterfly-shaped rings, necklaces, carved wide belts and barrettes, clipped to the back of the models’ beautiful looped hair braids. The Book Tote, bucket bags and minaudières were also decorated with colorful embroidery and thread work. Cut to the Baroque courtyard of the Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City — where Kahlo met Diego Rivera when she was a high school student — and Dior’s gorgeous 2024 cruise collection on Saturday night. Dior has drawn inspiration from Mexicos’ rich culture and traditions in the past for some of its most acclaimed creations. In 1951, the maison unveiled a breathtaking cocktail dress named Mexique for its fall-winter collection.
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Chauvet’s work brings awareness to women lost to violence, most notably her “Red Shoes” installations featuring dozens of pairs of red shoes set up in public squares around the world in memory of those who have disappeared. Another artisan collaborator, Pedro Meza, is a 30-year veteran of craft preservation, perpetuating the living heritage of Mayan culture with his Sna Jolobil workshop in Chiapas. “As we’ve seen in different moments, there are huge brands who have copied Mexican textiles without knowing the origins, how it’s done, the context. When she started thinking about designing a collection inspired by Kahlo, she contacted the exhibition’s curator, Circe Henestrosa, for guidance on artisan collaborators, a tall order considering Mexico has 68 Indigenous groups. At the press conference for the fashion show, Maria Grazia Chiuri expressed her profound appreciation for Mexico.
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That’s why the designer found inspiration in the Cruise 2024 collection in the Mexican surrealist artist Frida Kahlo. The dress clearly embodied Mexican influence and marked the beginning of a close relationship between the fashion house and the Latin American country. Almost 70 years later, Dior returned to Mexico to find inspiration again and bring life to their Cruise 2019 collection. Directly based on the female riders of traditional Mexican rodeo, the French fashion house showcased a series of garments that referenced traditional escaramuza attire. Elaborate embroidery, delicate lace, and hats were among the many elements that paid homage to traditional Mexican clothing.
To further canonise Kahlo, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose an incredibly special location for the show - the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, where the Mexican painter studied, and also where she first met husband Diego Rivera, who was instrumental to her work at various points. “This is couture, it really is couture,” Chiuri said of the work and its parallels with French fashion’s handcraft tradition. You have to produce within the community…and if you use the iconography and credit the community, you can work with them,” she explained.
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Drawing inspiration from these visions to create compositions of subtle power and strangeness, her portraits put the craft details of the collection in conversation with recognizable elements of Mexican architecture and the country’s native flora. Mexico’s vast landscapes house myriad communities, each deeply influenced by their unique textile and fashion legacies. This collection is not just fashion; it’s a profound exploration into the social and historical dimensions of these craft cultures.
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And a butterfly-shaped black leather corset (worn over a billowy white shirt and pleated skirt) was a beautiful tribute to the corsets Kahlo had to wear for most of her life, after she was in a bus accident that broke her spine in three places. “Surrealism has always been a big part of Dior, and Frida has always been very close to me, not only in terms of fashion but in terms of the heart,” expressed Maria Grazia Chiuri. Feminine inspiration and support for Mexican artists have always been a priority for the designer. Graciela Iturbide is one of her favorite photographers, and artists like Remedios Varo and Leonora Carrington are her muses. The 1948 Abandon black dress with plunging, asymmetrical neckline also returned, cut closer to the body in jersey to match the sensuality of Chiuri’s often skin-baring, reworked tailoring and back-draped, fluid dresses.
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Last year, Gucci staged its cruise 2024 show at the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul on May 16, marking the brand’s 25 years in the country. That collection was designed by an in-house team, following the exit of the previous creative director Alessandro Michele in November 2022. You’ve likely already come across this bag several times in the last few years — and for good reason.
From Hilan Cruz Cruz, a weaver, invited to collaborate on a series of shirts and dresses, with embroideries produced in his workshop, through to Pedro Meza who produced some of the sash belts, Dior's ode to exceptional craftsmanship was clear. The seriousness with which Maria Grazia Chiuri approached her celebration of Mexico deserves underlining. And as part of this, she found ways to weave the work of local artisans throughout the collection. Much of Mexico’s artisan work is done by women, who are under siege as victims of the pandemic of femicide.
“Maria Grazia is an extraordinary person because she’s, first of all, very generous, because she shares this crucial space on the catwalk with art. And in that sense, she’s really visionary,” Carnevale said of the creative director’s knack for curating creativity across mediums and eras. Dior celebrates the surrealism, feminism, and craft traditions of Mexican art with its Cruise 2024 campaign. The campaign was lensed and directed by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s go-to photographer, Brigitte Niedermair. Part of Kahlo's enduring appeal was her ability to push the boundaries, recognising the beauty of fragility, the strength in embracing the masculine with the feminine inside one body and using clothes as means of metamorphosis. For Dior, she created “A Corozan Abierto” (which translates to open heart), working on 1950s archival white cotton muslin dresses, with red thread forming words and symbols conveying the idea of loss.
Approved by Dua Lipa, this beloved design also includes a detachable tassel for fans of the charmed bag trend dominating 2024. While the pre-fall collection, which hits stores soon, was previewed by fashion media in December and is currently being globally promoted via Dior’s latest campaign, its Brooklyn Museum-based runway show was all about celebrating the Parisian house, and Chiuri’s close relationship with New York City. And boy was it a full house, complete with Rosamund Pike, Anya Taylor-Joy, Charlize Theron, Naomi Watts, Rachel Zegler, Diane Kruger, Michelle Williams, New Jeans’ singer Haerin and more. Niedermair’s campaign imagery picks up on the collection’s theme of exploring the life and work of Mexico City’s tradition of surrealist, feminist artists – like Remedios Varo, Leonora Carrington, Tina Modotti, and of course Frida Kahlo.
“I took Frida’s Mexican pieces and identified the regions she had things from, some came from Oaxaca, some from Puebla and some from Chiapas.…And then within those, there is a lot of diversity. But I looked for artisans who had the quality, who were innovative, who were serious about the research of the material culture of textiles,” Henestrosa said. Maria Grazia Chiuri tapped artisans from Oaxaca, Chiapas and Puebla to contribute to the collection. While the show’s makeup appeared “raw,” hairstylist Guido Palau pulled from the opposite end of the spectrum to create super-sleek pinup waves. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior New York landed in Brooklyn on Monday night with a megawatt front row. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.
But the most thrilling part of the campaign isn’t the still imagery, the styling, or anything to do directly with Dior itself – instead, it’s the performance from Mariachi Flores Mexicanas. This all-woman mariachi band provides a powerful and stirring performance that forms the backbone of the short film. Maintaining a focus on the band’s commanding singer throughout, this film takes shape as a single-take, providing a pseudo “behind-the-scenes” look at the creation of the campaign photographs that is an impressively layered piece of theatrical production in its own right. More than just visually appealing pieces, this collaboration fosters a unified outlook. It champions the continuity of skills, motifs, and values related to textiles and fashion, envisioning a future enriched by these artisanal traditions.
